Gautam Anand of ITC Maurya Sheraton had told me that the canned Dal Bukhara notched up a
daily sale of Rs.50,000, for anyone who has had this wicked combination of maa ki dal,
tomato puree and cream topped with white butter wants to take some for friends and
relatives. I thought Gautam, despite having studied History under Mohammed Amin at St
Stephen's, was being just a good salesman.
But after emptying the contents of a can (microwaved for four minutes and served piping
hot with a blob of butter), I've started believing him. And I'm certain that if there are
more people like me out there, the Chief Executive of ITC's Food Business, R.S. Naware,
may be right in projecting a turnover of Rs.2-3 crore this financial year and Rs 40 crore
by the end of the next three years, when ITC's entire canned foods range, evocatively
named Kitchens of India, would be out in the market.
I'm especially enthusiastic about the Chicken Dakshin (Chicken Chettinad with coconut
milk) and Dumpukht's Mutton Curry, which Naware promises will come in cans that can
survive a year without being chilled or frozen. At present, 70 stores in the city are
selling Dal Bukhara, but that doesn't mean convenience food has finally arrived. It'll
require a huge cultural shift and I don't see it happening fast. Can you foresee a future
when we'll stop having food cooked fresh for every meal by a dependable domestic ? I
can't.
And I still feel the canned Dal Bukhara will continue to be bought for the same reason as
it is today - to be taken to friends and relatives on your next trip overseas. But who
knows, Dal Bukhara may just happen to be the Next Big Thing to happen in India.